A Boy, A Chicken, and An Ugly Pair of Shoes

by Aeriel Kay on April 30, 2012

On Friday afternoon, in true Costa Rican fashion, my director notified me that there is no school Monday or Tuesday of the following week – surprise 4 day weekend! Several WorldTeach volunteers seized the opportunity to reunion in Boruca (a short 3 hour journey, traveling at 10 mph on a bumpy dirt road, away) and invited me to join them. While the chance to speak English, enjoy a beer, and possibly stay up past 9 p.m. was quite tempting, after a hard week at school I decided I needed some down time, some time to read and relax, some time to myself. And so I declined their offer and remained camped out in La Lucha.

Yet ironically, so far this weekend has been anything but reading and relaxing and spending time reflecting with me, myself and I. Instead it has consisted of intense games of tag, multiple “cafecitos”, learning how to make tamales, shopping Avon catalogues, and giggling with my 12 year old host-cousin about boys as we slipped and slid on the mud while trying to go for a run. Had I gone to Boruca, I would never have walked 20 minutes one way to accompany my host-mother to get her hair cut, nor would I have walked 45 minutes one way with my fourth grader to deliver a chicken.

What is it that makes these small every day happenings so beautiful and so satisfying? Perhaps because everything here is so unplanned, so natural, so everyday. I was only part of these events because I happened to be passing by at the right moment or happened to be sitting in the right spot doing nothing at the right time. No one here makes plans, and no one invited me ahead of time. It’s just….life.

Yesterday morning as I was sitting on my porch doing homework for WorldTeach, one of my fourth graders David rode by on his bicycle and asked me to come help him with his English homework. Of course, ahora, I said – which literally means: now, but actually means: I’ll be by anywhere in the next several hours. Bueno! he shouted and rode off downhill.

And so it was that I eventually showered and headed towards the lime green house with every intention of staying for an hour or two and returning in time for lunch. Yet as so often happens, the smallest cafecito visit turns into an epic adventure.

After helping David with his homework, playing with his younger sister, eating (obviously) and sitting looking at his mother’s Avon catalogues (yes the opportunity to be an Avon agent has somehow reached La Lucha??), I thought that maybe I would go home soon. Wrong. There was loud chatter and a long discussion in rapid fire Spanish about a chicken and a grandma and a car and to be honest, before I could fully understand what I was agreeing to, I was holding a chicken and was on my way to Grandma’s.

“You don’t mind walking to Capri right Teacher?” The destination in question is a 45 minute hike to the other side of the mountain.
“No, but I didn’t wear good shoes…” I said.
“No worries, do these fit?”

And so it was that my 10 year old student and I were on our way to Capri, David carrying a chicken and me wearing his mom’s shoes – a pair of hideous orange sandals.

We walked rather briskly talking about the river, horses, cows, and whatever else randomly popped into his ten year old head, and occasionally trading who got to hold the chicken. Every now and then I would ask why we were taking this chicken to grandma’s and every time I would get a different answer. Once at Grandma’s, I was quickly ushered inside, seated on the only stool in the kitchen and handed a cup of fresco – handmade juice made from some fruit that had just fallen in the backyard and water and copious amounts of sugar. For the next 3 hours, I was left sitting on the hard stool watching Grandma make tamales while David scampered about the mountain like a lost goat.

Just when I was getting ansy to leave, the rain clouds rolled over. “David we should probably go before it rains…” I said.
“But the tamales are almost done! Ahora!” Grandma exclaimed.
Ahora – an hour later, after David and I looked at every photo his family has ever taken, talked about his life when he was young, and worked as a team to catch a different chicken (the one we would carry back to La Lucha with us), the tamales were finally ready.

When the rain finally slowed to a drizzle, we set off back to La Lucha, with a chicken, our bellies and bags stuffed full of hot tamales, and a pair of hideous orange sandals that were, now wet, giving me a terrible blister. But not even my little toe aching from the shoes could bring down the feeling that somehow I was doing something good today. Because before we had even exited the town of Capri, David asked: ”Teacher, when are we coming back? Next Sunday? Or the next one?” I was once again overcome with the feeling of being a friend – and no matter what country you’re in, that feels good.

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Deflated But Not Defeated

by Aeriel Kay on April 25, 2012

Teaching is Hard:

Of all the bits of advice and words of wisdom my friends and family gave me before I moved to Costa Rica, of all the topics we discussed at orientation, no one ever mentioned that, quite frankly, teaching is hard. Really hard.

Found this circulating Facebook a few months ago and thought it pertinent to my new life...

How I Got Here:

For those just now tuning in, I am working at a public elementary school in rural Costa Rica. I am employed as a volunteer (guess that’s an oxymoron) through U.S.-based nonprofit organization WorldTeach. WorldTeach works closely with the Costa Rican Ministry of Education to place volunteer teachers from the States in communities that are too remote or too poor to hire a full time English teacher. Because knowing English is so valuable here in this bustling tourism-based country, any Costa Rican who speaks fluid English has found a high paying job, or works in the tourism industry, or has accepted a higher salary teaching in a big city.

The Ministry of Education has stated that they hope to be a bilingual country by 2020. While this is perhaps feasible, or at least imaginable, in capital San Jose, in the rural towns where no one speaks English for at least two mountain passes this is simply laughable.

But here I am – hired as a full time English teacher at La Escuela Maravilla in La Lucha de Potrero Grande – a town that cannot be found even on GoogleMaps.

What’s in it for the people of La Lucha? A free teacher who speaks fluent English to help their children get a head start on bilingualism and perhaps have the opportunity to leave this small town for bigger wages and aspirations.

What’s in it for me? The experience of a lifetime, claro. And also a Teaching English as a Foreign Language (TEFL) certificate that will then enable me to get hired to teach English to beginners anywhere in the world, regardless of what the native language is.

What I Do:

I teach 1st through 6th grade every day for 40 minutes each. I have 41 monkeys, I mean, students. I am at school from 7 a.m. until 4 p.m. teaching, planning, crafting, laughing, playing and sometimes crying.

I never realized until I got here how much work teaching is.

You must be smiling and energetic when your kids arrive, because if you’re in a bad mood, your students will be too.
You must be strict enough that your students don’t run circles around you and don’t talk out of turn. (But you also want to be liked.)
You  should be fun and entertaining and have a class that is enthusiastic, but you want your kids to respect you.
You want your kids to enjoy learning, but they need to actually learn.

When I’m not teaching, I’m preparing an activity for the next class.
When I’m not planning, I’m making 20 worksheets by hand because we have 1 printer that sometimes works and ink costs more than it’s worth.
When I’m not planning for the next day, I’m writing exams or instructions for take-home projects.

I realize some may read this and still laugh and say, but it’s just teaching. You’re just playing house and singing songs all day. And to that I say: you try it.

Because truth be told, before I got to La Lucha I too had a very romanticized idea of what teaching is. I thought, I can do this, easy peasy lemon squeezy. Haha – joke’s on me.

The Art of Teaching:

6th grade boys - a joy and a headache

“If a doctor, lawyer or dentist had 40 people in his office at one time, all of whom had different needs, and some of whom didn’t want to be there and were causing trouble, and the doctor, lawyer or dentist, without assistance, had to treat them all with professional excellence for nine months, then he might have some concept of a classroom teacher’s job.”
~ Donald D. Quinn

And here is where my daily routine becomes a circus act – 6 times a day. How do you juggle all of the students’ needs? How do you make sure everyone is entertained and everyone is keeping up? How do you constantly think of something new and exciting every day? For that matter, how do you teach?!

I used to think I can do that, I’m a patient person, I love kids, I can teach. And every day I realize more and more how inexperienced I am, how much I have to learn still, how much I am in fact floundering in this new role. And with that I give the most sincere hat-tipping to all the teachers in the world who are trying, succeeding, and doing it right.

 ”Teaching is not a lost art, but the regard for it is a lost tradition.”
~ Jacques Barzun

Emotional Investment:

 I went to bed Sunday night exhausted and emotionally drained from stressing about school so much. I realized that I was constantly thinking about school – something I had to send in to my director in San Jose, a lesson I still had to plan, how to creatively get so-and-so to understand, how to present singular and plural nouns to first graders, how to explain the difference between an apostrophe “S” and an “S” to make something plural. I couldn’t turn my brain off and it was filling me with a sense of overwhelming stress.

After school fun in the plaza

Monday morning I decided to try thinking of school as a job. What if I went to school, taught, prepared my classes like I would do paperwork and left, dusting my hands off as I walked out the door, able to go running, talk with my family, attend cafecitos, and read up on my world religions and microfinance books I brought? Sounded like a great plan to me.

By Monday afternoon I realized this was a silly idea, for I’m not so sure one can remove emotion from teaching.

Several of my students robbed prizes from my classroom while I was sitting in the cafeteria during recess. Two days later, the whole school is still wrapped up in a who-done-it mystery novel with false accusations and lies. X said it was Y and Y said it was Z and Z said that X and Y gave him some of the prizes and W said he saw X, Y, and Z all steal things. Which then leads me to the real question: why did W watch and not say anything?

The fact that my 4th, 5th, and 6th graders aren’t honest enough for me to leave my door open during recess bothers me. The fact that I have apparently done something to either lose their respect or not done enough to earn it bothers me more. The fact that I have students lying to my face about it when we’re talking one-on-one hurts.

How do I react to this situation? How do I discipline them?
I can’t show up sad, because then my younger students will mirror my mood and class will go poorly.
I have to be strict, but not mean; show sadness at their dishonesty, but not be too upset that it affects class.
I want my kids to know it’s wrong and to say sorry. But when I stutter in Spanish, especially when I’m frustrated, and they barely understand basic English, how are we going to understand one another?

And so, with these questions swimming about it my head it is quite obvious that teaching isn’t just a job you can show up at, put in your 8 hours and pack up and roll out by 5 p.m. How ironic that the day I decide to be less emotionally involved is the day that emotions just begin to come into play.

As my feet struck the hard dirt yesterday as I tried to both outrun the rainstorm and my thoughts, I realized that the only thing I’m 100% certain about is that teaching is hard. Really hard.

However, I suppose if something is hard it means you need to do it. And so with that, I am continuing to pick my chin up and look at each day and challenge as an opportunity to improve.

And once again, hats off to all the teachers out there. Because of all the things that are a challenge about being in Costa Rica, being a successful and effective teacher is the hardest.

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Sometimes You Just Belong

by Aeriel Kay on April 23, 2012

“The place you are in today needs you.”
~ Catherine Logan 

There are some moments that make you feel warm, wonderful, and at home – even when you are in a town you’ve only been in for 3 months and a house that you’ve never set foot in before.

Last Sunday, I was invited to a birthday party for one year old Santiago – the brother of one of my students. While I initially felt a little nervous about crashing an intimate family event, I have never felt so immediately accepted and welcome. It was the first time I was introduced as a “friend” and the small comment that no one else in the room caught but me filled me with a sense of belonging at the perfect time – just when I needed something to help me feel like I can make it through the next 8 months.

From left to right: Alison, her one year old brother Santiago, and her aunt and best friend Fernanda. (Small town Costa Rica means you have aunts and uncles younger than you and too many cousins to count.)

I arrived at the house just as the thunder clouds were rolling over the mountain and shouted “Upe!” to announce my presence at the gate. Scared of the initial awkward entrance, I was swept inside and standing in the kitchen gossiping with the women before I could give anything a second thought. Before I had formed a single sentence I was handed a heaping bowl of arroz con pollo (chicken and rice) and picadillo de palma (a finely chopped salad made with the heart of the palm tree).  As I sat eating the second grade girls danced about in their princess dresses and waited for Mom to finish painting butterflies on their faces with eye shadow. And I thought – somethings in life are universal, no matter what country you’re in or what language you speak.

2nd and 3rd grade students - somehow all related. And all precious.

There was food and cake, the kids played with toys and frolicked in the yard, the women chatted while washing dishes and the men sat on the couch yelling at the plays of the national soccer game on TV. And as I took it all in and felt perfectly content and at home, I had the strangest feeling wash over me. I felt homesick for La Lucha even as I was experiencing it. How can you miss something that hasn’t yet ended?

Cake brings smiles

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The Insider’s Guide to Cafecito

April 14, 2012

After a case of the post-Semana Santa- blues, I decided to flip back to the pages in my journal when I didn’t write a single negative word, back to the pages where all I could do was gush about how beautiful the small and simple moments are here in La Lucha. And those days all had [...]

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The Wall Must Fall

April 11, 2012

When I left the U.S. I began to build a wall. Each day I added more bricks and slapped on more mortar. Life in the States was on one side of the wall, life in Costa Rica on the other. The wall got stronger and it gradually became harder to remember what everything on the [...]

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Eat Your Wheaties!

March 27, 2012

I distinctly remember laying on my back on a two million dollar yacht just off the Miami coast with my college housemate Marie and her two friends Natalie and Emily the day before I left the U.S. My flight to San Jose departed from Miami on January 8th and I jumped on the opportunity to visit [...]

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My So Called “Job”

March 20, 2012

The rules of English Class: Even though many of the students can’t form more than one word responses in English, rule #1 at least serves as a great classroom management technique. When you can’t speak Spanish and you don’t know English, well then you just can’t really speak at all. With a group of wild [...]

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Things That Are Normal

March 16, 2012

Why have I procrastinated writing a blog about my daily life for over a month? It is now the middle of March and well into my time in Costa Rica and I have still failed to paint a picture of La Lucha Life, of what it means to live in one of the most remote [...]

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Do Your Late Night Munchies Have 8 Amino Acids?

March 8, 2012

As I got dressed this morning as quickly as I could in an effort to cover as much of my body as possible before I got bit in uncomfortable places by mosquitoes, I thought “remember the time I wore this shirt to go out? Now I’m wearing it with mock Ked sneakers to go play [...]

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La Escuela Maravilla In Photos

March 3, 2012

Forgive me, it is 7 a.m. Saturday morning and my brain can not manage to form eloquent prose in any language. So I am resorting to photos and short choppy sentences. But thought I’d give ya’ll a glimpse of where I work. La Escuela Maravilla: There are 40 students grades 1-6 and then 8 in kindergarten in [...]

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